by Anindita Vaid
When we think of clothing in the context of the Middle East, we often think of the burqa or the hijab. But that is only the tip of the glacier. From intricate embroidery to eye-catching jewellery, Middle Eastern fashion history is a tale of sensational fabrics and techniques that deserve utmost appreciation.
Appreciation is not difficult to arouse when the subject is as dazzling as the ‘thobe’, one of the most iconic Palestinian clothing items. Traditionally, a thobe featured elaborate embroidery, or “tatreez”, that often represented a story. The designs of the thobes varied from region to region- the Jerusalem thobe features a rich black fabric with colourful embroidery, and the Ramallah thobe is known for its unique red and black cross-stitch patterns.
Another example of Palestinian apparel is the black/red and white keffiyeh. Traditionally, it was worn by farmers to shield against the harsh sun and dust, but it has evolved into a symbol of resistance and nationalism over the decades.
The keffieh, along with the shemagh and the ghutra, exemplifies the deep-rooted cultural significance held by headscarves. The shemagh is associated with the Gulf regions. It features bold geometric patterns, most often in red and white. The ghutra, although similar to the two other headscarves, is a plain white or red and white checkered cloth worn folded into a triangle and draped over the head, secured with a black cord.
Further, Middle Eastern accessories include some truly mesmerising jewellery. Historians have discovered through numerous manuscript illustrations that 14th-century women frequently wore jewelled coiffures during Mongol and Timurid reigns, when men sported diademed headdresses that were the height of fashion in court circles. Later, pendants, rings, and earrings in pure gold, accentuating Islamic symbols like animal figures, were worn as status symbols.
Religious influences in jewellery can be observed in the custom of Islamic men wearing rings with inscriptions from the Quran, and women wearing necklaces or bracelets featuring the Hamsa Hand. The hamsa is an amulet shaped like a hand, believed to protect against the evil eye.
Symbolism is prominent in various Middle Eastern fashion items. Even colours symbolise different things in Islamic culture. According to Islam, green in this world personifies birth, nature, growth, and fertility; and in the world to come, the angels are green, and the rewarded believers in heaven will wear green cloaks.
Therefore, fashion in the Middle East has gone through eras of evolution. Each item adorned on a Middle Eastern person of the past decades is highly meaningful.
Has the same essence and meaning persisted throughout the years? We observe many people from the Middle East wearing simple jeans and a T-shirt. But that does not mean that Arab fashion has lost all significance.
Even today, there are brands and people who advocate for preserving this history and potency. Ellie Saab, Zuhair Murad, Abed Mahfouz, Rami Al Ali, and Farida Temraz are all Middle East-based designers who express their culture through their designs. Nathalie Trad from the UAE is renowned for transforming traditional aesthetics into unique clutches that could easily be mistaken for art sculptures. While her designs are modern and innovative, they are rooted in Middle Eastern cultural heritage.
In the age of “get ready with me” videos, many Middle Eastern fashion influencers get ready in traditional Arab clothing with a hint of modern couture. Dalia El Daly doesn’t view her hijab as a restriction on her style; in fact, she uses it as an unmissable accessory to enhance her outfits. The same is observed with accounts like @farxana.nx, @the_hoodjabi_, and @luckyzaina.
In closing, Arabian threads are woven into exquisite garments, but they are also woven into a cultural history that goes far beyond our understanding of Middle Eastern fashion. The Middle East tells us powerful stories of resistance, unity, and love through fashion; we only need to open our hearts and listen.